It is succulent and comes pre-loaded with (sorry, is fed on) samphire, sorrel and sea lavender – and yesterday it joined the rarefied group of UK food and drink products to be given protected status. Thus, the producers of Gower salt marsh lamb – born, reared and slaughtered on that 19-mile peninsula of South Wales that thrusts its way into the Bristol Channel – were, for once, contented farmers.